Product Quick Look – Citadel Painting Handle

The Man Cave has gone on a little spending spree recently. 

One of the new toys I’ve picked up is the recently released Games Workshop’s Citadel Painting Handle.

I did a little video, full of my usual nonsense and musings, so why not take a look.

Until next time, I’ll see you at the table.

Hobby Hack #3 – Engine/ Thruster glow


Painting engine/ thruster glow can be a bit difficult and time consuming, but here we have a simple and effective method for painting engine/ thruster glow.

All credit to Hivefleet_Horror, for this tutorial

Until next time, I’ll see you at the table.
– from The Man Cave 

Hobby Hack #1 – Panel Scriber

As hobbyists we are always looking to cut a few corners when it comes to our spending, cause let’s face it our hobbies ain’t cheap. 
So I thought I might as well share some hobby hacks I’ve come across. Sometimes they’ll be ones I use myself, other times it’ll be ones I’ve come across either on YouTube, one of the Facebook groups I’m in, etc etc.
First up, is a Panel Scriber. Panel Scribers are used to basically cut a line/shape into a model, to denote different metal panels in a models, an insignia/ mark on a model, or some such.
As an example, I’m currently (slowly, very slowly) building a model of the Battlestar Galactica.

As you can see, there’s a number of panels on the top and sides of Galactica’s head. Theses are nice, but a bit too shallow for my liking, so I’m going to use a Panel scriber to increase the depth between the panels. 
 Now I could go out and buy a Panel Scriber setting myself back at least €10, or I could make my own, which I did (costing me about €1.50).
What you will need is…

• a box of tacks

• a Bic biro

• a clippers

Take the plastic cap off the back of your biro. Taking one of your tacks, and using your clippers, you want to trim off the back of the tack, so that it snugly fits into the back of the biro.

Once this is done, your ready to rock and roll.

When you think your tack has dulled, simply trim the back off another tack, and away you go again.
Until next time, I’ll see you at the table.
– from The Man Cave

Gundam Custom – Gusion Rebake Urban Camo Style

I recently got a new Gundam model kit…

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It’s the 1/144 Scale High Grade Iron Blooded Orphans Gusion Rebake by Bandai.

It’s a nice kit with good articulation. Incase you didnt know, Gundam High Grade kits aren’t static in their poses. They have joints (that swivel, rotate, and allow swinging) in their body parts of arms, knees, legs, etc which allow them a high level of poseability.

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With the Gusion Rebake although I like the design, I’m not a fan of the kits colour. So I’m going to give it a ‘Custom’ paint job. I have an idea of an Urban Camo pattern for this kit. I’ve never tried a camo pattern before, so it’s going to be a learning experience. I don’t own an airbrush, so I’ll be using my good old paint brush.

For painting the kit I’m going to be using the following materials:

* Citadel Chaos Black Primer
* Citadel Astronomican Grey
* Citadel Adeptus Battlegrey
* Citadel Ironbreaker
* Citadel Dwarf Bronze
* Citadel Nuln Oil
* Games Workshop Ultramarine Blue
* Games Workshop Ice Blue
* Games Workshop Scorpian Green
* Blue Tack

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First of all, after building the kit I have to take it all apart again.

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First up, I prime all of the Gusion Rebake’s armour pieces in Chaos Black.

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Once dry, I apply strips of Blue Tack over the pieces in a sort of stripped pattern. I then paint over the pieces with Astronomican Grey.

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Once dry, I repeat applying pieces of Blue Tack in a stripped pattern, and this time I apply Adeptus Battlegrey. I then allow the paint to dry.

Once dry, I begin to peel off all the Blue Tack.

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As the Rebake has a partial inner frame, I’m going to Dry Brush it with Ironbreaker. If your unfimilar to Dry Brushing, it’s basically where you brush a very fine layer of paint over parts.

Once the Dry Brushing is dry, I use the Dwarf Bronze to paint the tubes on the Rebake’s arms, its thrusters on its shield and the vents on the Rebake’s waist and chest, followed by a Wash of the Nuln Oil on those parts.

The Scorpian Green, Ultramarine Blue and Ice Blue is used on the Rebake’s eyes and the camera lens on its head.

Once all dry, I reassemble the gundam.

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Once all dry, I apply a Dry Brush along the edges and curves of the armour to give it the appearance of wear and tear.

All that’s left is to apply a Top Coat to the model to prevent the paint being accidentally rubbed off.

Not bad for my first time trying an urban camo scheme. A few mistakes were made and a couple of boo boo’s happened (I broke off half his V fin) but all in all I’m happy with the results.

Why not give it a try for yourself and let me know how it went.

– from The Man Cave